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cocoyan
说说钻石的HCA指数
6344
5
2015-06-12 23:23:11
版上姐妹们选石头的时侯都在纠结HCA指数。 我在刚入Tiffany, training 的时候没有提及任何相关的东西, 问了不少同事大家也都没有听说过。 今天终于有幸联系到了总部的一位 珠宝鉴定负责人, 请教关于HCA的问题。 同时我也去了大家用的这个网站研究了一下 ,[url=http://www.pricescope.com/tools/hca]http://www.pricescope.com/tools/hca[/url], 这个网站标出 需要用一下的report :AGS and 2006 GIA and IGI reports。但Tiffany是有自己的lab的,有着更严谨的标准, 所以导致世界上只有0.02%的钻石才能命名为tiffany diamond。 为了给大家更专业的回答,我把珠宝鉴定负责人的邮件copy在下边,这样大家就可以更好的了解了。
The HCA is a very simplistic way to judge a diamond. It is based on the Tolkowsky proportions from the 1920’s. The formula only asks for a few proportion inputs and calculates based on slight deviations from an exact set of proportion metrics. This is very antiquated, as we now know, many other factors contribute to the visual of a diamond and every individual will have their preferences. Polish, facet and proportional symmetry, varying combinations of girdle thickness, percentages, angles, culet sizes, star lengths/pavilion half lengths and so forth… help to determine the varying degrees of Brilliance, Dispersion and scintillation. Tiffany has fortunately calculated all of these factors and will only sell diamonds that fall within a prescribed set of parameters that we feel represents the full spectrum of exquisite visual beauty. We do not sell any poorly crafted diamonds and allow our customers the freedom to choose what they prefer in a diamonds light performance, without sacrificing the inherent integrity of a diamonds physical attributes.
When a customer is set on utilizing simple means to ascertain a numerical value that supposedly represents the visual characteristics of a particular diamond, they unfortunately, lose out on making an informed decision based on their personal preferences and Gary Holloway is very clear in pointing this out. The numerical value is an “indication” of certain aspects and even a diamond that rates below a “2”, can have poor visual appeal. We should always revert conversations back to the superlative craftsmanship of each and every diamond we sell and our marketing material continually emphasizes this point. Consistency is a big part of what we do, and our customers can rest assured that the makes of our diamonds do not factor in to the value equation of choosing a diamond.
The HCA is a very simplistic way to judge a diamond. It is based on the Tolkowsky proportions from the 1920’s. The formula only asks for a few proportion inputs and calculates based on slight deviations from an exact set of proportion metrics. This is very antiquated, as we now know, many other factors contribute to the visual of a diamond and every individual will have their preferences. Polish, facet and proportional symmetry, varying combinations of girdle thickness, percentages, angles, culet sizes, star lengths/pavilion half lengths and so forth… help to determine the varying degrees of Brilliance, Dispersion and scintillation. Tiffany has fortunately calculated all of these factors and will only sell diamonds that fall within a prescribed set of parameters that we feel represents the full spectrum of exquisite visual beauty. We do not sell any poorly crafted diamonds and allow our customers the freedom to choose what they prefer in a diamonds light performance, without sacrificing the inherent integrity of a diamonds physical attributes.
When a customer is set on utilizing simple means to ascertain a numerical value that supposedly represents the visual characteristics of a particular diamond, they unfortunately, lose out on making an informed decision based on their personal preferences and Gary Holloway is very clear in pointing this out. The numerical value is an “indication” of certain aspects and even a diamond that rates below a “2”, can have poor visual appeal. We should always revert conversations back to the superlative craftsmanship of each and every diamond we sell and our marketing material continually emphasizes this point. Consistency is a big part of what we do, and our customers can rest assured that the makes of our diamonds do not factor in to the value equation of choosing a diamond.
谢谢mm分享!
还是营销文的调调,本来不想“砸场子”,既然有人顶上来,觉得还是要给人另一个角度的信息。color>=I,clarity>=VS2, carat>=0.5ct, cut达到GIA 3ex或AGS cut 0分的钻我保守估计本来就已经是至少top1%以内的钻了,现实来说,tiffanity的钻的标准是我看过常见的几家大牌里最低的(当然也符合价位),cut参数各种严选以外。如果要买大牌的设计和做工,我没什么好说的,自己觉得值得就好,但是钻石(尤其是brilliant cut圆钻)是很标准化的,有GIA或AGS的certificate,t的钻也不是自己做出来的,自己花心思挑的话,绝对能挑到cut比t的钻average水平更好的,具体去看我的精华帖。最后,HCA的评测能力确实有限,但是是很好用的一个筛选工具,在严选标准里再用HCA double check过的钻肯定也比t的average水平好。
发现T家1.4-1.5克拉的钻,10个里面8个hca分数不高,大于3.0的也有好几个,最好的就是1.5左右。但是价格算下来都差不多。Hca最好的也没比3.0的贵。
这让我觉得tiffany自己标榜的cut是不是忽悠人,同时cartier找了几个算下来分数都还行。
这让我觉得tiffany自己标榜的cut是不是忽悠人,同时cartier找了几个算下来分数都还行。
到现在也没明白怎么查HCA,不过既然zt自己一个人趁中午休息的时候偷偷跑去买了他觉得最美的石头(也是买得起的)送给我,我就觉得那是最好的了吧
本来挺喜庆的事儿,本来也不想砸场子来着。。但还是忍不住说两句。这营销目的也太明显了吧。
T一直说自己的lab有多么严格,却没有一个成文的标准。作为一个普通消费者,我很难被convince。
这封专业人士的回信给我感觉一点也不专业,有种拎不起的感觉。
Hca测的就是圆形钻的切工,据我理解就是钻石的漏光率,别的不管。漏光率越小,钻越闪。
T家这位给了一堆对外行来说很唬人的名词,给我感觉就是又开始忽悠。我假设它家对称性,打磨等等都不是问题,那么别的角度到底是怎么筛选的?漏光率大又是什么原因?
钻石的切工当然不代表一切观感,不知道总强调hca不代表一切这么weak的论调为什么老拿出来说。。低于2的黄钻又有大黑点杂质当然不好看啊。。可是漏光率高于2的又怎么说呢?
我自己打电话问过几个1.3克拉左右的t家钻石。无一例外hca都超过2.5。价格。。都超过25k。呵呵
卖品牌就卖品牌,扯这犊子干啥。。。
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