Kevyn Aucoin: His book The Art of Makeup left no doubt that he is, above all, an artist. His canvas just happens to be a woman’s face. Who could dispute that he’s the heir apparent to Way Bandy (see below)?
Way Bandy: The master of maquillage. In his hands the makeup brush, sponge, or wand became a true tool of transformation. His AIDS-related death robbed the cosmetics field of a genius.
John Bartlett: One of today’s most “in” designers, he’s also one of the most “out.” Bartlett’s unapologetically gay stance in the often-closeted world of fashion makes him one of our heroes.
Mr. Blackwell: As Mae West might have said, when he’s good he’s very, very good, but when he’s bad he’s better. This merry viper has turned fashion criticism into a comic--if often deadly--art.
Raymond Dragon: In an era of the designer as media star, Dragon embodies the porn star as designer. His revealing clothes look great on those who have the body--like Dragon, a sometime Colt model--for making porn.
Perry Ellis: Perhaps the most notorious AIDS death in fashion was that of this great American innovator in sportswear. Ellis was to Seventh Avenue what George M. Cohan was to Broadway: a Yankee Doodle Dandy.
Jean-Paul Gaultier: He’s been called the enfant terrible of fashion for so long, you wonder how much of an enfant he could still be. The king of sci-fi fashion, Gaultier drew his inspiration from his mother’s foundation garments. And you wondered why he had Madonna wearing her undies on the outside of that nice suit.
Halston: Halston was the first designer-as-celebrity--not for him the obscurity of the faceless couturiers who labored unseen in their workrooms. Halston’s society connections helped make him, and he in turn helped remake society. Go ask Liza.
David LaChapelle: Blessed with a sort of gay Midas touch, LaChapelle defies the classic contention that photography isn’t really art. His vivid, offbeat photos often make his largely heterosexual subjects look like camp icons.
Bob Mackie: Since the `60s he has produced the glitziest costumes on TV, giving many Americans their most consistent exposure to the world of fashion. With his trademark baubles, bangles, and beads, he has dressed all our favorite network divas--from Cher to Carol Burnett.
Law Mizrahi: He’s the garmento elevated to the level of movie star. His revealing star turn in the documentary Unzipped earned him scores of new fans. Known for a vivacious use of color and an uptown-meets-downtown sensibility, he’s the designer you’d be happy to take home to Mom.
Thierry Mugler: Like fellow Parisian Gaultier, Mugler has a taste for the surreal. As much carnival as couture, his shows are notable for the inclusion of such porn stars as Jeff Stryker among his fantastically clad models. Where leather is concerned, no other designer has given us a bigger twist on Tom of Finland.
Todd Oldham: Propelled to New York by his talent for making--in true Texas fashion--bad taste look deluxe, Oldham made an MTV-flavored name for himself as the hottest purveyor of kitschy, campy, funky thrift-shop chic.
Willi Smith: Smith--our biggest black designer and one of fashion’s greatest AIDS losses--took the look of the “street” and made it fashionable. Neither fashion nor the street has ever looked the same since.
Andre Leon Talley: This star maker’s acute sense of what’s hot and what’s not in fashion--developed at Women’s Wear Daily and Vogue as well as at Interview--has made him the Diana Vreeland of the `90s. Can a one-man Broadway show be far behind?
Gianni Versace: Since the `70s his mission has been to dress his female clients like high-class hookers. Versace’s a favorite of rockers and Hollywood types of both sexes, patrons who could vouch for the truth in Dolly Parton’s line “It costs a lot of money to look this cheap!”
Bruce Weber: He built a career on the glorification of male beauty. A true auteur of still photography, Weber spawned a generation of models who would rather die than make eye contact with the camera.
